“I’ll take GRAPES for $500, Alex.”
Jack: “Boy, I sure am thirsty.”
Jill: “Grab a glass of water, then.”
Jack: “That’s a GREAT idea! We’ll have a BLAST in Napa!”
Jill: “Wha….???” (shakes head slowly)
And with that, we had decided to take a vacation to the land of great grapes! Well, at least the great grapes on this side of the Atlantic.
Jill & I are INTENSE lovers of wine which is really why we tend to prefer BYOBs over ‘traditional’ restaurants. Though we have our favorites, we are also quite open to trying new bottles. Admittedly, my taste is a wee bit more particular than Jill’s; she refers to me as a, Wine Snob, actually.
Given that this would be our first trip out to the valley (hopefully, not our last), we were quite calculated in the vineyards we would tour. Part of our exhaustive planning (and by “our” I mean Jill’s) was feedback from friends who had ventured west. Most had targeted an average of four vineyards a day, with some up to five, which we believed would be waaaaay over our heads. Who would have a palate left after so much wine (tasting or not, it tends to add up!). Further, though there are many services available to chauffeur one from vineyard to vineyard, we opted for the ‘drive ourselves’ approach; more leisurely and certainly more affordable. With that, we decided on two per day, beginning at lunch, so we could enjoy the mornings and tackle the day with the correct mental framework.
We stayed at the River Terrace Inn, a casual yet elegant hotel overlooking the Napa River. Our room was well-appointed and offered a balcony overlooking said-river. The hotel also offers a bar and restaurant, both recommendable. Further, a public path is available behind the hotel, taking pedestrians along the river to the downtown area of Napa, a casual ten minute walk. Its location relative to our destinations made it advantageous. For us, it was simply perfect.
Jill created our itinerary with both vineyard and location in mind, lest we be driving like a bunch of ‘loco’s’ all liquored up! This allowed us to truly appreciate the experience each vineyard offered. Every day, as we began our adventure, we would grab 2-4 complimentary bottles of water (this is a mandatory!) for hydration and post-dilution. And off we went….
Our visit began with a trip to one of the original Napa Valley families, the Louis M Martini vineyards. The winery itself is beautiful, offering both an indoor and outdoor experience. We enjoyed an outdoor tasting complimented with artisanal culinary delights, as the weather was simply gorgeous. The wines offered were delightful, and the servings generous (this was consistent at virtually all the vineyards we frequented). Toward the end of our tasting, our hostess made us the proverbial “offer you can’t refuse”; purchase a minimum of two bottles and your tasting is free! The bottles are in our wine cellar.
The Charles Krug Winery was our next stop. As a sidebar, many do not know that the Charles Krug winery, though a very popular purveyor of wines initially, became the Mondavi family’s first ‘real’ vineyard. Ultimately, after the explosive division of the family (I recommend you read the book, it’s incredible), Peter Mondavi remained and Robert went his way and truly established the name to what it’s become today. Krug wines are fantastic, and to this I give full credit to Jill as it was her choice. I was surprised across the board. Our hostess was naturally charming (an east coast transplant) and the other couple who joined our party were delightful. She took us through our tasting and gave us a tour of the grounds including the vineyards sharing the history I touched upon. We had a wonderful time across the board. Once again, we were offered a similar deal to that of Martini, which we happily agreed to. The bottles are in our wine cellar.
The next day took us to an outdoor lunch at the infamous, Robert Mondavi Winery, easily the most recognized name (and winery silhouette) in the wine world. We happen to love the wine (admittedly, the higher-end offerings) which made this all the more pleasing to us. That being said, we were blown away. The Vineyard to Table Lunch is a rather intimate experience held on the patio with serene views of the garden and vineyards. The setting complimented the event perfectly. The food was to-die-for, and the wines were remarkable! A favorite being, the cabs from the To Kalon Vineyard. Our hostess, both knowledgeable and personable, went from table to table checking in on her guests throughout the experience as she shared the history of THE vineyard in the valley. Though no deal was offered, per se, we did receive a discount on any bottles purchased. Keep in mind, a few of their offerings appear to only be available at the vineyard. The bottles are in our wine cellar.
Making our way across the road, we went to the prestigious Opus One Winery. If one has more than a casual approach to wine, then the Opus name rings the bell. It is the offspring of both Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild (yes, THAT Rothschild!) and was meant to elevate California wine to the level of the infamous French Bordeaux (actually, it was made in the Bordeaux-style). The wines are expensive. Very. Expensive. BUT also, VERY delicious! The architecture of the building is a bit odd in that it doesn’t necessarily ‘fit’ in the valley, but very attractive nonetheless. Our host was wonderful throughout our private tasting, sharing his knowledge of the winery and the valley. He was also quite generous in his pours. I MUST add, they offered a certain snack with our tasting.
Jill: “Oh, no. Not again.”
Breadsticks. Yes, breadsticks. They were sooooo gooood! I enjoyed them so much, our host brought me, um… I mean, us, several more to take home.
Opus is a favorite of mine as I was gifted two bottles several years ago as a birthday gift and opened one to celebrate. There were no deals to be had, as well as no pressure to purchase, which we certainly appreciated. That being said…. the bottles are in our wine cellar.
We began the day… actually EVERY day, with a hearty breakfast at a local establishment, Model Bakery that is simply to die for! It is located a short and enjoyable walk from the hotel along the Napa River path to downtown. The breakfast sandwiches. You MUST get the breakfast sandwiches.
The WINE TASTING for the day began with Pine Ridge Vineyards which, along with fantastic wines, also has an AMAZING wine cellar; the caves. Their wine cellar is built into the hillside offering their many barrels a naturally cooling environment. We shared this experience with several other couples who were as enthusiastic as ourselves. The cellar, minimally and tastefully decorated, offered both couches as well as a long table. There we enjoyed wine and conversation, as well as MANY photo opp’s! The bottles are in our wine cellar.
We finished our week with what, in my humble opinion …
Jill: “Your opinion is anything BUT humble, baby!”
… is an EXQUISITE gem… Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars! This is not to be confused with, Stags’ Leap Winery, which is no slouch. Long story short, both vineyards fought over the name and a judge settled it King Solomon-style; “use the apostrophe to distinguish between the two.”
Stag’s Leap is incredible to me; so very rich, complex yet smooth, so savory… so VERY fulfilling. It’s orgasmic! We enjoyed various pours over a private tasting complimented with a tasty charcuterie board and overlooking the vineyards through the floor-to-ceiling glass walls. Our host was an amazing character who genuinely loves expressing his pleasures when it comes to wine. He also proved to be quite knowledgeable as he took us through the vineyards history including the infamous Judgement of Paris where the vineyard won international acclaim. Throughout our ‘lunch’ he would come & go soliciting opinion and telling stories, and he never came empty handed! The pours continued for some time as did our enjoyment and laughter. Jill has a video of me tasting a rather old cabernet where my reaction is completely spontaneous and over-the-moon! Our favorites would be both the SLV and the Cask 23 varietals. We’re also fans of Artemis. This being said, we are patient in allowing these creations to flourish over time- we enjoyed a 2009 ~ 2 years ago which was crazy-good! Joining the wine club brings you these extraordinary wines at a discount. Needless to say, the bottles are in our wine cellar… and continue to come quarterly!
